Category Archives: Recollections

Things I Ate At The C.N.E. In 2024

It was not a banner year in the world of Canadian National Exhibition stunt food eating. Either vendors have run out of ideas, they’re just not trying anymore, or my willingness to pay inappropriate amounts of money to put unpleasant items in my mouth has caused me to freeze up, skip and mentally block out some of the most novel items.

I still managed to try a bunch of weird-ass things, though. Here is what I ate at the C.N.E. in 2024:

Colossal Onion’s Spiral Spuds 6/10
I generally try to avoid “classic” Ex foods, but Colossal Onion’s Spiral Spuds and their tasty deep fried chips plus cheese-like sauce, bacon bits and onion nibs was solid if not adventurous.

Korean Fried Chicken Poutine 6.6/10
Billed as “classic poutine topped with Korean Fried Chicken and topped with Daikon radish and pickled red onions,” this was exactly what it said it was. These two things, however, pair up about as well as fried chicken and waffles. Which is to say they shouldn’t really go together and their pairing makes no sense.

Tzatziki Cheesecake 4/10
One of the big stunt foods for the season, this featured conventional New York style cheesecake with a tzatziki buttercream topping and a couple pita chips. It was, frankly, disgusting. The garlic of the tzatziki clashed with the subtle vanilla of the cheesecake in an unnatural way and left a slime trail in my mouth.

Nerds Gummy Clusters 3/10
These were a free sample offering of a new Nerds product where the traditional Nerds micro-candies are stuck onto a gummy glob. The most notable thing about this new product venture is that it is perhaps proof that capitalism has peaked and we are now in decline. That, or there’s at least a business school-type lesson in here that starts with, “No, you don’t actually have to expand your product line…”

Barr Bubblegum 4.3/10
Barr American Cream Soda 4.2/10

Despite its eye-popping prices, we get wistful every time we walk past that British confectionery import stall in the convention building. So partially in the hopes of avoiding the monopolistic hold Big Coca-Cola™ has on the C.N.E., and partially to get something from this booth we landed on two cans of pop. We neglected to note, however, that these were sugar free soda drinks. Which positions these flavours somewhere in the same range of a lesser Sodastream substitute that someone chokes down to feel something, anything.

Muskoka Spirits Pineapple & Raspberry Hard Sparkling Water 10/10
Having discovered these hard water drinks recently I’ve got to say they’re particularly effective when a) it’s a super-hot day, and b) they’re ice cold. The flavour is perhaps secondary to the light alcohol + sunstroke buzz and cool refreshalization.

Dunrobin Rye Whisky & Ginger Ale 10/10
Rye and ginger in a premixed can is perhaps slightly less of an experience than the hard waters. But it still ranked and sunshine-filled fall fair day drinking is a distinct pleasure.

Mochi Matcha Kit Kat 6.3/10
Mochi Pepero White Cookie 5.7/10

Every year a crazy, wild, outlandish stunt food gets pitched that’s really just some standard fare from a non-Western culture. This year it’s Mochi donuts, the chewy, bubbly ringed pastry popular in Japan. While they have their moments — the matcha glaze is a welcome addition in the new world — they fail to match the best variants of North American donuts for size, flavour or purpose*.

*That purpose being delicious sugar bread junk food designed to fill your body quickly with empty calories.

Legend Dairy Crookie Monster Croissant Cone 6.4/10
It’s a solidly acceptable and flaky chocolate croissant topped with soft serve ice cream and some googly eyes meant to anthropomorphize the dessert. Its actual appearance — a melting, dripping mess slowly dampening and breaking down said pastry — was comically unlike the pristine product photo on the Legend Dairy booth’s billboard. I wouldn’t particularly recommend it, but its components were at least complimentary despite the aura of blobfish.

Carla’s Cookie Box Butter Tarts

  • Biscoff Butter Tart 7.1/10
  • Peanut Butter & Chocolate Chip Butter Tart 7.7/10
  • White Chocolate Toffee Butter Tart 7.6/10
  • Strawberry Funnel Cake Butter Tart 7/10

It’s starting to get a little unfair to rate each new year’s Carla’s Cookie Box butter tart offerings. Because we’ve already tried and deeply love all their best offerings we now devotedly try things we suspect we won’t like nearly as much. A biscoff butter tart? “Strawberry funnel cake?” At what point is it the fault of the humble reviewer for putting themselves in a position where they know they will dislike an item? Or at least dislike an item knowing that they also bought a whole separate half-dozen pieces of mouth magic in the form of Nutella butter tarts? We’re probably near the point where continuing to clock Carla’s Cookie contents is closing, but rest assured we’ll still be taking home a couple dozen.

Rick’s Good Eats Deep Fried Butter Chicken Lasagna 8.4/10
Since blowing us away last year with their ridiculous “CNE Special Butter Chicken Overload” we have determined that the Rick’s Good Eats food truck is one of the greatest places on Earth. So it was with a full heart and an empty belly that we dove in to try this year’s creation, “Deep Fried Butter Chicken Lasagna.” There was no deception in the name. It was lasagna that had been buffed up with delicious butter chicken. As tasty as it was, though, the portion was modest and the price was high in a way that meant this couldn’t match last year’s headliner.

Rick’s Good Eats Deep Fried Gulab Jamun 6.9/10
It is with great sorrow, however, that I report their undercard offering of Deep Fried Gulab Jamun did not meet the mark. Gulab Jamun, for those of you who live in a sad state of fear over foods from other continents, is a doughy ball-like confection from India frequently served nearly submerged in sugar syrup or rosewater. If you encounter good, fresh ones, or better yet, all-you-can-eat Indian buffet ones, it is truly a transcendent experience. And this is where the Food X + Deep Fried = Fair Food formula fails. Deep frying gulab jamun basically turns these gifts from the heavens into Timbits, a food experience that is decidedly Earthbound.

Deep Fried Pickle Oreos 2.3/10
More like deep fried shit. This is first item I’ve tried over the years under the “deep fried” banner — including things like butter, chicken feet, mac & cheese and, separately, both pickles and Oreos — that truly sucked.

Fuwa Fuwa Strawberry Refresher 5.8/10
The first couple times we tried the Fuwa Fuwa booth at the C.N.E. were a revelation. The pastries were wonderful, the fresh drink offerings were good and unique. Unfortunately, the thrill is starting to wear off. Getting a mixed cocktail of a soft drink served in a plastic bag has lost its novelty. And after I saw a teenage server pouring Sprite into my bag as the secret bam up ingredient, so has some of the magic. Still ok, though.

Indian Rasoi Paneer Hot Dog 6.2/10
It was a hot dog bun filled with paneer cheese squares. I give the Indian Rasoi folks strong marks for building a stunt-ish food that isn’t really stunt-y in the grand scheme of things but maybe got them some shine and helped support the paneer industrial complex.

Quench Ice Tea 5.9/10
Pretty sure this was meant to be some kind of candy floss flavoured ice tea. Its most notable element, though, was its food colouring nightmare composition that made it look like the sort of thing a child erratically slops together when they’re allowed to pour their own fountain soda drink from the dispenser for the first time and adds a little bit of everything into one cup.

Freshly Roasted Corn On The Cob 7.4/10
Yet another of the midway foods we never really bother with before. Except on this occasion we were heading towards the TTC stop after attending a concert at the nearby Ontario Place Forum and the gals in the booth were doing a fire sale on their remaining cobs because they clearly wanted to close up and go home. I think I paid a dollar. Which at that price point was fantastic for a substantial piece of delicious roasted corn.

Reid’s Dairy Swirl Soft Serve Ice Cream 6.7/10
Got this in the midway after coming out of a show at the Ontario Place Forum when everything else was closed. It was… fine.

Ye Olde Fudge Pot 6/10
Similar to Carla’s Cookie Box, we’ve long been devoted to the fudge booth in the Arts & Crafts building. At last check, though, we’ve considered 14 different fudges from there during our food adventures. And so it was time to try something different, the classic Food Building staple Ye Olde Fudge Pot. Unfortunately, where the craft building fudge had a wild eccentric edge hidden in their slightly overpriced slices, Ye Olde’s fudge is dutifully conventional, square cut, classic. Sure, it’s still fudge, but it’s not the thrill fudge I need in my life.

Smash City Cheeseburger Springrolls 8.2/10
One of our target stunt foods for this year, this was basically a greasy ass cheeseburger stuffed into a springroll casing and it was excellent. The springroll as a delivery device for ground chuck and melted cheese works exceptionally well it turns out.

Oreo Horchata 8/10
This took too long to make but it was pretty bitchin’. It is exactly what the name suggests — an icy horchata with a pile of blended up Oreo cookie in it.

Eva’s Original Crème Brûlée Cone 6/10
The Risky Fuel household has been know to crush upwards of a half-dozen crème brûlée each when we encounter them in places like all-you-can-eat buffets. So we had high expectations for this dessert converted into fancy cone form. Sadly, it was less. The cone itself was a messy, dribbling, charisma-less nightmare and the crème brûlée felt less like an exciting, creamy custard and more like a standard vanilla pudding. If you’re a crème brûlée hater you probably don’t think there’s a difference. But there is.

Maple Lodge Ultimate Chicken Frankfurters 7/10
Now years removed from creating the worst Ex food item ever (Eclair Hot Dog, 2012), Maple Lodge have found a savvy rebrand by just giving out free samples of their gourmet barbecue level wieners. I usually find chicken wieners to be suss but these were fine.

Pineapple Ginger Mojito 10/10
Spiked Strawberry Lemonade 10/10
The bartenders in the outdoor patio by the casino were in a generous mood when we dropped in on a sunny Labour Day afternoon. Maybe it was all the union folk really day drinking in their matching Local tees, but the drinks they made us were gigantic, icy, stiff and filled with signature fruit. The ginger mojito was ginger-y and the spiked lemonade was lemon-y and despite the slightly-too-high price tag we’re pretty sure this was a win for the workers.

The Perogy Chef Sampler Special – 3 Perogies, Sour Cream & 1 Cabbage Roll 6.7/10
We’ve pinged The Perogy Chef before, but never for the sampler deal. The perogies remain solid, slathered in an inappropriate amount of butter and a level above generic supermarket offerings. It’s the cabbage roll that’s the low key win. Nobody actively seeks out to eat a cabbage roll at a fall fair… and yet here we are.

GoGo Squeez Apple Pineapple Passion Fruit Fruit Sauce 3.8/10
This was a free sampler giveaway. I’m not sure who the audience is for this. Desperate middle class parents trying to dodge sugar snack bans in their kids’ schools? Athletes who want a fruit boost during training? People who’ve wrecked their body health so bad, for so long that this is the only “treat” they’re allowed? Anyway, it’s gross. The experience of sucking characterless apple sauce through a nozzle is not one I’d recommend.

Additional reading:

Things I ate at the CNE in 2023. Including Funnel Cake Chicken Sandwich and Thanksgiving Dinner On Top Of Fries.

Things I ate at the C.N.E. in 2022. Including the San Francescos Leaning T.O.wer of Pisa and Mustard Ice Cream.

Things I didn’t eat in 2021 because Global pandemic blues closed the EX.

Things I ate at the C.N.E. in 2020 (COVID National Exhibition Edition). Including Double Wiener Cheese Curd Pretzel Hot Dog and Bacon-Wrapped Veggie Corn Dog.

Things I ate at the CNE in 2019. Including the Snickle Dog and the Cheesecake Factory General Custard Sundae.

Things I didn’t eat at the CNE in 2018 because I boycotted to support unionized workers who were fighting The Man.

Things I ate at the CNE in 2017. Including Deep Fried Chicken Foot and Savory Fried Spaghetti Donut Ball.

Things I ate at the CNE in 2016. Including Bug Dog with Roasted Crickets and Deep Fried Butter Tarts.

Things I ate at the CNE in 2015. Including Corrado’s S&M Burger and Iron Skillet’s Frosted Flakes Chicken On A Stick.

Things I ate at the CNE in 2014. Including Fran’s Thanksgiving Turkey Waffle and Coco’s Fried Chicken Cocoa Chicken.

Things I ate at the C.N.E. in 2013. Including Nutella Jalapeno Poppers and the S’more Dog.

Things I ate at the C.N.E. in 2012. Including the Chocolate Eclair Dog and Bacon Nation Nutella BBBLT.

Things I ate at the C.N.E. in 2011. Including the Krispy Kreme Hamburger and Deep Fried Twix.

Things I ate at the C.N.E. in 2010. Including Deep Fried Butter and Taco In A Bag.

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Aaron’s Top Ten Concerts Of 2023

Stereo MCs at Shiiine On Weekender 2023

Publishing my annual best album list has gotten a wee bit complicated in the last few years what with my day job at the Polaris Music Prize and the fact that a record or two that are “in competition” always end up making the grade. So I’ve decided to pivot a wee bit and focus on the best shows I’ve been to this year instead. This list overlaps, but isn’t pulled exclusively from my Before They Die™ list (which, if you don’t know what I’m referring to, next time you see me at a show you’ll have to pull me aside for a detailed explanation).

Here are the best concerts I attended in 2023:

10) The Boo Radleys @ Reds, Shiiine On Weekender, Butlin’s Minehead, UK, November 17, 2023
Getting to see the Boos was one of the main reasons why we crossed a continent to attend a weird regional music festival in an off-season amusement park. They played the bulk of their biggest hits, including “Barney (… And Me),” “Lazarus,” “Wake Up Boo,” “Upon 9th and Fairchild” and “Wish I Was Skinny” and almost single-handedly justified our trip.

9) Lee Reed @ Bovine Sex Club, October 14, 2023
Opening for B.A. Johnston. This was absolutely amazing, uncompromised revolution rap from an old white guy from Hamilton. There were songs about eating landlords, fucking up cops, death to gentrification, and anti-capitalism. I was completely inspired by his set and remain inspired weeks later.

8) Nico Paulo @ The Baby G, July 31, 2023
Beautiful voice, beautiful songs. Paulo was great, even though she didn’t actually focus on her very charming self-titled album. In recent years I’ve low-key chased a certain sort of ’60s & 70s-style pop vocalist (think Carole King, Carpenters, Petula Clark, Lesley Gore, etc) and Paulo gets closer to capturing that elusive time period magic than most.

7) Stereo MCs @ Centre Stage, Shiiine On Weekender, Butlin’s Minehead, UK, November 19, 2023
This was an absolute throwdown. They sounded spectacular, they looked spectacular and the beats and the music felt just updated enough to feel seriously heavy, effectively executed and both contemporary and still retro. I was not expecting to come out of Shiiine On fest going, “Holy shit, the Stereo MCs…” and yet here we are.

6) Jairus Sharif @ Polaris Music Prize @ Massey Hall, September 19, 2023
This was one of my favourite actions of the Polaris year. We got Jairus to play his solo freak jazz in front of a bunch of VIPs before the Polaris Gala. It was 15 minutes of wondrous, deviant and challenging noise — exactly the sort of thing we’re meant to celebrate.

5) Inspiral Carpets @ Skyline Pavilion, Shiiine On Weekender, Butlin’s Minehead, UK, November 18, 2023
Besides the Boos, getting to see the Inspiral Carpets was one of the central pillars of our recent U.K. trip and it was entirely worth it. I almost cried like three times and the 1-2-3 of “She Comes In The Fall,” “This Is How It Feels” and “Two Worlds Collide” was beautiful and perfect. I was completely shocked that their closer was a theatrified “Saturn 5” complete with confetti canons, bouncing balls and a whole heap of flourish. But we won’t hold that against them.

4) The Hives @ Lee’s Palace, November 3, 2023
This was hot, sweaty, relentless, perfect rock ‘n’ roll with the band fucking giving it. It also helped that their new album — and in particular the “Rigor Mortis Radio” song — are absolutely deadly. This was probably the only show this year where I lined up for “doors open” instead of cruising in to the joint three minutes before set start and that commitment (and the very good sightline by the Lee’s guardrails overlooking the floor) made for an epic evening.

3) Dayglo Abortions @ Hard Luck Bar, May 20, 2023
The background for this show was that Murray “Cretin” Acton, the band leader for this 40+ year old pack of punk legends, was touring across Canada while he had colon cancer and was basically, “I could sit at home and be depressed, or go out and see all my friends…” It was a remarkable message with remarkable resolve. The first song the band played was some sort of noisy Fuck Cancer ad-lib, but beyond a few funny stage quips about it, the Dayglos played a straight-ahead greatest hits set and the audience treated it like a proper punk show… which is probably the best way to go about it. Cretin made multiple mentions of “community” and supporting the scene and one couldn’t help but feel swept up. The highlight was probably a very hardcore “Drugged And Driving,” which really landed. I was kinda shocked this Dayglos tour hasn’t received more attention in the straight world. Perhaps it’s because they’re punk and old and messy, but whatever, it was an incredibly inspiring, life-affirming, shake-your-fist-at-death set from punk rock masters.

2) BIG|BRAVE @ The Garrison, June 11, 2023
I’m not exactly sure how to describe BIG|BRAVE seeing how “screamy pagan folk doom” sounds a bit reductive for a trio of absolute players who take you on a journey through their dark, dizzying jazz metal world.

1) B.A. Johnston @ Bovine Sex Club, October 14, 2023
I’ve been waiting years to see B.A. and he did not disappoint. Johnston is an absolutely brilliant showman and possibly the best iteration of what a one-man band could be. His crowd work was superb — he poured Hawkins Cheezies bits down my throat, crawled through my legs at one point, played outside on top of a parked car at another point, served bar, sang on the bar, did about 15 costume changes (he just had 15 shirts of his on his body that he systematically took off) and generally ruled the entire evening. The “We’re All Going To Jail (Except Pete, He’s Gonna Die)” Van Halen song as set closer was perfect. This wasn’t just one of the best sets I saw this year, this was one of the best sets I’ve ever seen.

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The Dune Colouring Book That Saved My Childhood

Dune, the books, the movies, the world-building masterpiece created by author Frank Herbert, has long been an obsession for the Risky Fuel household.

Ahead of Denis Villeneuve’s Dune movie adaptation Sarah took some time to write about the fascinating curio that warped her young mind around the release of David Lynch’s Dune movie in 1984 — the official Dune colouring book.

Sarah wrote about this utterly bizarre piece of merchandise for the science fiction site, The Companion.

To read her story, go here (paywall).

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Nitzer Ebb Show Creates Dancing Machines

LIVE: Nitzer Ebb
December 1, 2009
Mod Club
Toronto, Ontario

Pioneering industrial dance group Nitzer Ebb’s connection to Toronto runs deeper than you’d expect.

The reformed Chelmsford, England band’s music was the anchor for no less than a half dozen major alternative/electro club nights in this city about 15 years ago, and that scene’s survivors — the hardy misfits who still wear black, or shave the sides of their heads, or aren’t afraid to go out on a Tuesday night — were witness to a Terminator-efficient performance that was vital, vicious and without any taint of retro kitsch.

Local dance rockers OPOPO had their work cut out for them as openers. Perhaps it was because they felt too much like The Shamen or Ned’s Automic Dustbin — comparative softies from back in the day that Ebb fans would’ve defined themselves against — but the arms-crossed, shaved-headed crowd mostly no-sold the band’s high energy set.

Credit the band for continuing to barrel through, though. Neither did it hurt when vocalist/guitarist Bryan Sutherland put his hands over his eyes to shield them from the stage lights, looked out into the crowd and assured, “Hi, we’re OPOPO. We’ve got a couple songs left” mid-song. It was self-aware and self-deprecating enough that it at least softened the audience to dish polite applause for the remainder of their stage time.

The Mod Club crowd was still a little cold when Douglas McCarthy, Bon Harris and live member Jason Payne bounded onto the stage, but that would change in very short order.

During the pulsing take on the Belief album’s “Hearts & Minds” the character of this show really began to show itself. Slowly but surely, bodies started moving as McCarthy flung himself across the stage in his suit and tie like a sinister Max Headroom while Harris and Payne pounded away at dueling drum kits.

Showtime‘s underground classic “Lightning Man” further elevated things. Hundreds of raised fists matched McCarthy’s shouts of “Baby! Come to daddy!” as a strange sort of hive mentality broke out on the Mod Club floor. It would be too gag-y and ravespeak to say there was a sense of “unity,” but as the band pushed on through “Blood Money” and “Godhead” the audience felt transformed.

No longer was it about the individual fan as much as it was about the interlocking mechanical parts that were the bodies that were moving, punching and stomping along to a fascinating machine language. If this was a collective synesthesia, the participants weren’t seeing colours, but instead phantasmal hammer strikes, gear shifts and piston firings as the band pressed on.

By the time the Ebb unveiled That Total Age‘s “Murderous,” McCarthy had lost the jacket, skewed the tie and the industrio-trance was in full effect.

There had been very little in the way of stage banter up ’til that point and there would be very little as the band continued. Besides, McCarthy was already saying all the important things he wanted to say in his songs — which mostly involved commands for people to get on their knees.

Nobody actually did drop down, but there were a few who were surely close during the surprisingly anthemic “Control, I’m Here” and the not-as-bad-as-I-remembered “Ascend.”

The only logical choice to close their set was dark club banger “Join In The Chant” and, sure enough, pretty much everyone did in fact join in the chant. Somewhere in there, McCarthy lost his shirt and that mechanical trance broke down into chaotic flailing, those machine parts oscillating so wildly that overheating was inevitable.

The Ebb’s short encore concluded with McCarthy doing his best Dave Gahan for an arms-wide-open take on “I Give To You.” Having made so many demands of all the little machines all night, it was the perfect gesture to give something back. It was a decidedly human way to end the show, but it felt a bit like a warning, too, and left little doubt that Nitzer Ebb would be back.

This story was originally published December 2, 2009 via Chart Communications.

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My Bloody Valentine Are Too Loud

LIVE: My Bloody Valentine
September 25, 2008
Kool Haus
Toronto, Ontario

If you take a couple of normal folks and put them in front of a loud Creedence Clearwater Revival cover band, the ensuing noise will likely shake them out of their vanilla lives into fits of dancing. At a certain level, it’s not even about whether the band are any good, so much as it’s about the normies having this genuine “I’ve-never-felt-like-this-before” gut response to facing blasting rhythmic noise.

Pack a couple thousand hipsters into a warehouse space and crank waves of feedback at them, and they basically turn into your uncle Stan marking out to “Suzie Q” in the exact same way. I know because that was pretty much the reaction on Thursday night to My Bloody Valentine’s return to a Toronto stage after a 16-year absence.

Yeah, I’m in total agreement with everyone else: Loveless is a wonderful record. And I spent many hours zoning out to that album in the early ’90s. Unfortunately, My Bloody Valentine’s live show — which is built upon the foundations of a) being really fucking loud and b) featuring undulating pulses of piercing white noise — stomps out any of the subtlety and nuance that make MBV great on your home stereo.

Sure, it made for a truly magical and unique marriage of sonics when the melody lines of “Only Shallow” or “I Only Said” would rise above the racket. And when the riffs of “Come In Alone” smashed into you, it was with a fascinating and breath-shortening physical force. These were moments I can’t even imagine a band not named My Bloody Valentine being able to evoke. But if you were hoping to actually sing along to Kevin Shields or Bilinda Butcher, you would’ve been shit out of luck, what with their vocals essentially acting like bird chirps in a sonic hurricane.

Probably more disconcerting, though, was that when you entered the Kool Haus, a very fatherly and concerned security guard handed out earplugs to everyone and warned “you’re going to need them.”

Was nobody else actually offended that the baseline volume of a band was going to be so high the venue staff actually felt the need to warn people what they were getting into (no doubt to absolve themselves of liability for blown ears)? Seriously, what exactly is the goal of having that level of volume?

Mythbusters says “the brown note” doesn’t exist, so trying to make your audience shit their pants is out. But causing vomiting (which we’ve got at least one confirmed report of from last night) and fainting (which happened to a former Chart editor at MBV’s Opera House gig in 1992) were no doubt in the cards. Throw in the overpowering spastic flashes of that light show — a sensation that felt not unlike getting poked in the eye 10 times a second — and it leads me to believe the band were looking to evoke epileptic seizures, too.

Now that I think about it, I’m pretty sure this whole exercise was an act of sonic sadism on the part of My Bloody Valentine — a twisted game where the band earned sparkly badges for every throw-up or person cowering with their back to the stage and hands covering their ears.

Basically, if you went to this show, you got gimmicked. What My Bloody Valentine did was no different than Gwar spewing blood on to a crowd or some hardcore band encouraging a violent circle pit. MBV’s tactic was “be really loud.” And they certainly were. But 20 per cent less volume and 10 per cent more subtlety would have made a 30 per cent better show. And if you think differently, you’re probably like uncle Stan leaving his house for the first time in 10 years and encountering rock ‘n’ roll.
Fuck you, My Bloody Valentine.

This story was originally published September 26, 2008 via Chart Communications.

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